Suzuki gs1000r xr69 endurance replica

  We are building a suzuki xr69 endurance replica (Japan or france version), does anybody have the orginal fairing (tete de fourche)???






 

Don't be shy to help us out

We are going to make the frame by ourself with bronze welding

(sorry for my poor English)

Parts that we already have are:

Dymag wheels
Lockheed brakes
Brembo rear brake
Rg500 front fork
Dresda rear fork
Keihin cr33
Gs1000 engine

And other parts

Yoshy fairing on ebay.de
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xyoshimura+gs&_nkw=yoshimura+gs&_sacat=0&_from=R40

nice project

Thanks, I know that fairing, but it is not a good replica

It is a good try from these guys but it is nut the same

Sinon y as celle la
 


Mais c est pas une vraie
Japy

Good evening,

You may follow the original manufacturer : 

http://www.harris-performance.com/acatalog/F1.pdf

price depends on the model you like to select

Fibreglass Suzuki XR69 style race full fairing with Dzus fasteners, plain front : £250
Fibreglass Suzuki XR69 style race full fairing with Dzus fasteners, moulded front to accept twin headlight : £290
Fibreglass Suzuki XR69 style Endurance racing top half fairing, with plain front : £160
Fibreglass Suzuki XR69 style Endurance racing top half fairing, moulded front to accept twin headlight : £200

If you are interested, we produce a Poly/Kevlar made of Jersey tissue instead of the classical sauerkraut fabrication.

Ok, thanks guys! Tonight I will place some fotos of the progress sofar

What do you think: chrome molybydeen or reynolds 631 or normal steal
we want to do the bronce welding

What are the best options?

Christian1991 a écrit:

Ok, thanks guys! Tonight I will place some fotos of the progress sofar

What do you think: chrome molybydeen or reynolds 631 or normal steal
we want to do the bronce welding

What are the best options?

bronze welding was a good and used method to build racing chassis.
However, with the new tires and new performance engines... users should carrefully keep en eye on racing condition.
Most of frame builders does NOT want to produce this kind of frames, exception made for Classic or replicates motorcycle.
The last edition, whelded by spot bronze welding, the XR69 used by a well know English pilot, during the last TT Classic, shows how this (beautifull) assembly may be dangerous on today's performance.

this is my 2 cents opinion, I use to share with myself.

hope this will help you in your quest. But please contact today's manufacturers to get their opinion. Reynold 631 tig welded seems to be their last choice.

Here are some purchased items that we already have

This is the rg500 front fork wits 18 inch dymags.


Here I am sweep up the gs1000 a little bit:cpasmoi: 



Dresda swingarm and 18 inch dymag with brembo p08 caliper



And last but not least.... al the tubings and steel plates for the frame:banane1: 

 

The gs1000 engine is already build up and is almost ready to race.... now only the frame and al the rest  


Also we have a couple of nice cr33 carbs

 

We have a nice scitsu rev counter



This winter we are going to build the frame... we are very excited:cpasmoi:

All the pistons are the same weight, we did it on the old skool way:banane1:  





And last but not least the dymags with brake discs and a lockheed caliper

 

Yesterday we started with the bronce welding of the frame, we made some test tubes and it worked very well actually!!






Today the oversize inletrubbers for the cr33 package came in:albino: It fits perfect

today we make the oil adaptor:albino: 











now only black paint:cpasmoi:

we building right now on the front end of the bike





also the inlet ports are 33mm

  

i have picture of a motor of SERT racing bike, and we can see many drill holes...

nini72 a écrit:

i have picture of a motor of SERT racing bike, and we can see many drill holes...

Do you know how much weight is dropped when the holes are drilled?

The weight isn ´ t the goal, but the cooling

Pics of a Yoshimura factory head GS 1000 '82.
Holes are part for wheight gain but most for cooling.

Bonsoir Titane

C est pour mieux refroidir les perçages au niveau du puits de bougie ??? et pourquoi certains trous sur les ailettes ne débouchent pas ?????
 
Japy

japy a écrit:

Bonsoir Titane

C est pour mieux refroidir les perçages au niveau du puits de bougie ??? et pourquoi certains trous sur les ailettes ne débouchent pas ?????
 
Japy

Les amorces de perçage autour des filetages de bougies et de certains plans de joint sont là pour augmenter la surface de matière en contact avec l'air et donc, effectivement, de mieux refroidir.
Les amorces de perçages non débouchant dans les ailettes sont ... en face des conduits d'admission ! Percer débouchant à cet endroit causerait quelques problèmes ...............
JM

Titane a écrit:

japy a écrit:

Bonsoir Titane

C est pour mieux refroidir les perçages au niveau du puits de bougie ??? et pourquoi certains trous sur les ailettes ne débouchent pas ?????
 
Japy

Les amorces de perçage autour des filetages de bougies et de certains plans de joint sont là pour augmenter la surface de matière en contact avec l'air et donc, effectivement, de mieux refroidir.
Les amorces de perçages non débouchant dans les ailettes sont ... en face des conduits d'admission ! Percer débouchant à cet endroit causerait quelques problèmes ...............
JM

Pas assez réfléchie, c est effectivement un gros problème:Merci: 
Japy

 

Bonjour

Un des  secrets  



A+
Pascal